Monday, April 18, 2011

Amici di Roma Day: Palazzo Quirinale and Colosseo

Amici di Roma is a group of academics with interest in the archeology and art history. During Culture Week in Rome they hold a series of events for free or with a guide for 10 euros. Daniele and I made reservations to see the Palazzo Quirinale and Colosseo on a day Daniele was free.

We had a tour of Palazzo Quirinale in the morning, which I believe is open once a month normally. Our guide was really good and I actually understood most of what she said (it was in Italian). The palace was amazing, just room after room with beautiful glass lamps and wall decorations. In roman times this hill was home to a complex of baths and statues. As the tallest hill in Rome it was a very desirable place for palaces. In 1583 Pope Gregory XIII build the Palazzo Quirinale here as a summer home to escape the humidity of the Tiber River. In 1870 when the papel state was overthrown, Rome joined the rest of united Italy. Immediately after in 1871 Rome became the capital and the palace became the home of the king. In 1946 the monarchy was abolished and the palace is now the official home and office of the president.

In the afternoon we went to the Colosseum or “Colosseo”. It was free for culture week, so it was super crowded. Luckily we were with the “Amici di Roma” group and didn't have to wait in line. Unfortunately this guide (or more the other person “organizing”) was not very organized and lost half of our group. She was practically running through the crowds and our group split in half at some point. Luckily someone with us had the number of someone with them, so we got reunited after a little confusion.

The point of this tour was not to see the normal inside of the Colosseum, which you really only need to do once and I had already done. They brought us underneath and on top to areas normally restricted. In fact as we were let through locked gates I heard at least once “how come they get to go through?”.

First we went underneath. The area has only just been opened to anyone besides archeologists. The guide was difficult to understand, but she showed us where animals (or whatever) where brought to the stage level on pulleys. Also where water was brought in from the aqueducts to flood the Colosseum and stage naval battles.

Then we went up top. Like top top. I'm pretty sure were were right where Alberto Sordi threatened to jump if not brought to the US in “Un Americano A Roma” (recommended film). Up top our guide told us more about the history of the Colosseum. All the shows were free and they could load everyone in and out in a few minutes. The seats right up front were for the senators. The only woman allowed on the first floor was the emperor’s wife. All other women were on the higher seats because the shows were considered a thing for men. Not far we could see the field where the gladiators would have trained.

Before the Colosseum was build the valley was a swamp. The Ancient Romans lived in the hills. Nero drained the water from the swamp because he wanted to build a giant villa. He died before finishing it, and the Flavi family used the materials to start building the Colosseum.

After Constantine converted the empire to Catholicism, they started using the Colosseum less and less. It just wasn't considered very Christian. Eventually everyone stopped caring about it and it fell to all different kind of uses over the years. The papacy even made it into its personal quarry, using its marble to build up the Vatican. That is why a whole chuck of the side is missing by the exit. The Romans, who invented cement, did not use any on the Colosseum, they held the stones together with bronze clamps, which were also taken, leaving those pock marks. For a while people even had apartments inside; if you look you can see the retrofitted windows.

The story ends well, in 1749, Pope Benedict XIV declared the Colosseum a secret site saying that martyrs had died there. He began reinforcement and excavation and more was done by Mussolini. Today, of course, it is one of the most popular tourist sights in the world.
Pictures from this fun day are in my Rome and Monterotundo Album: https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20110225RomaAndMonterotondo

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Latina

Daniele, Emanuele, and I went to a new (for me) beach: Circeo in the district of Latina. Latina is named so because it is a region where there are a lot of dairy farms. In fact we had some really good buffalo mozzarella with lunch.

We went to San Felice Circeo, to the beach as well as the center and port. After we went to Sabaudia.


Sabaudia is one of the newest towns in Italy. The area used to be a swamp that was one of five converted by Mussolini. There we are at a seafood restaurant and pizzeria called the Dollar that was really good.

Pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20110409Latina

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Villa Pamphili

Villa Pamphili is a park in Rome and former estate of a noble family (like many Italian parks). The park is divided in two halves, one that is mostly wild and the other with the palace and all the fountains. The palace is used to host visiting dignitaries.


We stayed on the side with all the fountains; there are a lot of fountains. There is also a pond, chapel, and stream. We ran into some wild parrots or “pappagalli”. I was most amused by my discovery of a duck-chicken hybrid. These must have been the result of some abnormally aggressive specimens of ducks or chickens. I assume this because the hybrid was first brought to my attention because of some loud bird rape happening at the water's edge. These seem like sexually aggressive birds.



Album from the day:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20110330VillaPamphili

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Parco degli Acquedotti

This is a long park that goes between the important roads of Appia (arrives in Puglia the heel of Italy) and Tuscolana (arrives in Castelli Romani). The park starts just outside the old wall of Rome and ends at the bottom of the hills of Castelli Romani. Still standing here are two important ancient aqueducts: Acquedotto di Acqua Marcia and Acquedotto di Claudio. The second still works today and brings water to Piazza della Republica near Termini Station.

After we went by Parco della Cervelletta, next to Daniele's parent's house. Like many Italian parks, this is the ancient country home of a noble family. In the case of this villa, some people actually live in a few of the property buildings. The main castle is state owned and there are events held there.

Pictures of the Aqueducts:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20110325Aqueducts#

A few pictures of Parco della Cervelletta are in my Rome album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20110225RomaAndMonterotondo#

Monday, March 21, 2011

Fara Sabina

First we went to the town of Fara Sabina. This is a classical walled medieval town with big door to enter. On top there is an ancient church and square that was closed for repair, but kids were still inside playing soccer. There were a few people around. Nice view of countryside. Lots of cats. One followed me for a while.

Then we went to the Abbazia di Farfa. Farfa is the town of the abbey. We took a tour. The guide was very knowledgeable and has written “the book”, but was not one of those Italians who are very easy for me to understand their Italian. There were shops with natural soaps, chocolate, and other things; all made by the monks. Also an oil tasting of Sabina Olive Oil. Naturally, there was a church. Like most of Italy, they are constantly restoring everything. As pointed out by the guide, this is actually making it less beautiful. My favorite part was the library with all of the hand written books.

Pictures of Sabina, combined with another trip there, scroll about half way to get to these.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111221349198606775660/20110311Sabina


Thursday, March 17, 2011

150 Years of Italy

Today is the 150th birthday of Italy. It has been one nation under one flag that long. In celebration, Rome had a “white night” last night. Everything was open until 2 AM and all the museums were free as well as some things being open to the public that normally are not, like the senate and some special ruins.

Daniele, his brother Emanuele, and I went into the center together to celebrate. Many of the monuments were lit up in the tre-colore. We made it inside Musei Capitolini and Museo del Mercato di Traiano.

Then we went to the senate, which I was excited about, but the line moved so slowly that we had to give up to catch the metro back home. We were pretty tired by then anyway, so it was for the best.

Meanwhile, all over Italy everything from billboards to the “tre-colore” lettuce I bought today is celebrating the 150 year landmark. Since who knows where I'll be for “200 Years” and I probably won't be up for running around all night at the age of 75, I'm glad I got to partake. Happy Birthday, Italy! Tanti Aguri!

All the pictures from this night:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20110316150YrsOfItaly#

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Castelli Romani

Daniele, his brother Emanuele, and I spent the day visiting places in the Castelli Romani area. Castelli Romani literally means Roman Castles. It is a collection of about 10 medieval cities atop a volcanic hills; each centered around the old town square, church, and (you guessed it) castle.

We first stopped by Monte Porzio Catone. This little old town was surprisingly alive. There was a market on market street. A crowd of old people gathered in a small square. I think the active “new” town just outside the “old” town walls might be helping keep it alive. Or it could be the other way around. Naturally we saw all of the expected landmarks, like the church and clock tower. There also seemed to be a local cat gang.

We stopped next at Parco Archeologico Culturale di Tuscolo / Archeological Culture Park of Tuscolo. Besides being a beautiful park, it was full of Ancient Roman ruins. Unlike the ruins in the center, that are somewhat closed off, these were open for anyone to look around as you pleased.

Next we went to Grottaferrata where there is the Abbazia di San Nilo / Abbey of St Nilo, Chiesa di Santa Maria / Church of St Mary, founded in 1004. After walking around the ancient castle-like abbey for a while we had lunch outside at a porchetta and panini place.

After lunch we went to Castel Gondolfo, the Pope's summer vacation house. Besides this lovely palace the city had lots of Italian flags in anticipation of the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy. Interesting, 150 years ago, it was from the Pope that this city (and the rest of the providence of Rome) was liberated.


As one last stop at the end of our day we quickly visited the city of Frascati. This place was bigger, busier, and more of a “city” than any of the other towns or “ancient cities” we had visited. We saw the standard sights, church, square, view of Rome. What I actually found most interesting about this place was the landscaping. One of the first things I saw entering the city was a row of square trees. Their leaves had been pruned with exact edges to form what looked like a perfect hedge lifted up by tree trunks. Also the main Villa used a similar technique to form a enclosed walkway to their palace.

All pictures from this day:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20110315CastelliRomani#