Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Heading home from Milan

I got to visit Milan one last time. It worked out really well because my friend Dan who lives here is moving back to Brazil next week and I got to see him and go to his going away party.

Now I'm heading back to the US. It's a long flight with a layover in Stockholm (not on the way). I leave at 6:30 AM Italy time and arrive in Newark at 3:15 PM EST.

This trip has been wonderful! I've seen so many places, met so many people, done so many things. Here are a few of the things I've learned these past three months.

How to carry my suitcase up and down the train station underpass to my platform.

How to schedule my train itinerary so I don't have to carry my suitcase up and down the underpass.

How to take a shower in a tub with no curtain and leave the bathroom cleaner than when I started.

That toilet seats are not that important at home if it's just girls.

All laundry should be turned inside out to be washed.

I do not do my laundry as well as I should. According to Filippa.

If I don't get married soon, I won't be able to. According to Filippa.

You can get canned pumpkin in Rome, but not pie crust.

Bananas make you fat. And I eat too many of them. According to Filippa.

To turn the water heater on an hour before I want to shower.

Washing my face with warm water in the morning is a luxury.

To light the stove with a lighter. With one hand. While I fill the pasta pot with the other.

Everything is cheaper in the US. Especially clothes. Especially US labels. Except espresso and pizza.

Vodafone is an evil company.

Heat in October is a luxury.

Fresh ricotta is nothing like what we buy back home in 12oz containers. The mozzarella is pretty amazing, too.

How to avoid eye contact with cruising Italians.

No matter how hot it is in the Metro you keep your coat on, hussy. Or be prepared for the stares.

The best place to buy cloths is from the street vendors. Actually that's the best place to buy anything.

How to pee while squatting like a pro. (Thank you two years of bicycling in San Francisco.)

To recycle almost everything. My q-tips where the only thing I had to put in unsorted.

Where to find the three best gelaterias in Rome.

How much I love (and sometimes hate) Italians.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Leaving Rome

I traveled for September, seeing new places (Cinque Terre, Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, Florence, Berlin, Munich, Neuschwanstein, and Milan). For October and November I have been a part-time student, part-time tourist, part-time resident in Rome. I could immediately feel the difference between traveling and living in Italy, just like I remember from four years ago. I'm glad I spent a longer period in Rome opposed to continuing to travel. Besides that it is exhausting to travel, it is a completely different experience.

Now I am on the train from Rome to Milan. I'll spend two nights there before I take off for my long trip back to the USA. I'm sad to leave Italy, especially sad to leave Daniele-- but very excited to come back to the US. These past few weeks I have been constantly sick with a cough (so I can't sleep), scabies, and more often than not a light fever. It's really taking it's toll on me. I'm actually a big of a wreck between it all.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Scabies

I've had an itchy rash developing over the last two weeks. Fillipa and Daniele called it an allergy, but I was pretty paranoid it was something like bed bugs. Especially since Daniele already had an “allergy” and that seemed like an odd coincidence. But it didn't really make sense that I would have bed bugs now, after living in the same apartment for over a month. It wasn't until I complained about my itching over twitter that my friend Jared gave me the answer: Scabies.

I got the idea that I probably had Scabies on Monday night but I had to wait until Wednesday to go to the dermatologist. My experiences with the Italian health system have been pretty good. I went to the ER/Clinic first, where the doctor wasn't 100% sure what it was and told me to go upstairs to the dermatologist. She knew immediately that it was scabies. Apparently there is an epidemic. I was the third person she had seen that day with the same problem. The cure is intense but quick. It only takes four days. There is a surfer soap I use at the start and end, an oil I put on every night, a pill I take at night, and another lotion I can use for dry skin. The clinic is free, but I had to pay to see the dermatologist, something like 15 or 20 euros.

I already had plans to see Daniele that same night. I wasn't dreading the “Hon, I have scabies” conversation too much since I was pretty sure he had started it. But he maintained that his was just an allergy. He gets a sort of eczema every winter with the dry air and the hospital soap. But on closer examination, his “allergy” had spread past his arms. There was no arguing we should split the soap and oil.

My original theory was he got them at the hospital and gave them to me. How else? But now that I've been paying attention I see all the different places I could have gotten them first; like trying on cloths, or sitting in public fabric-lined chairs. But I maintain that he gave them to me. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

That night I met and had dinner with Daniele's family for the first time. I ate possibly the best meal ever, and got to know his parents and younger brother. Not to go off on a tangent on the meal. But we had gnocchi with pesto (the pesto they made with Daniele's basil), Eggplant parmigiana (not like in the US, it was layered and baked like lasagna), Grilled vegetables (eggplant, zucchini, bell peppers covered with bread crumbs), buffalo mozzarella, spinach and broccoli, roasted chestnuts, little pastries, limoncello, and coffee. So many courses! So good! I loved his family, too, of course :)

Later that night I developed a really bad fever. And the smoker's cough I've just learned to live with from living with Filippa got noticeably worse. I think I might have bronchitis or a flu or something. Like scabies isn't enough!

I'm actually not as grossed out as I would expect myself to be. The rash was unbelievably itchy. Unbearably so. It woke me up in the night on Monday. It's actually a bit of a relief that what I have is something that can be cured so quickly. If all I had was a reaction to an unknown allergen, that could take months to go away. I may have ripped my skin off. Yesterday I was on the Metro, trying not to touch anything, since public transit is so gross. Then it occurred to me that it is a pretty safe bet I am the sickest person on the Metro between my cough, fever, and scabies. Isn’t that something!

Here is what scabies looks like, if you want to see. Not as gross as you would probably think.
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#5550645294719667826

Monday, November 1, 2010

Halloween

For Halloween Danielle and I went to Old Calcata with another couple, Gerlando and Valentina (I'm probably not spelling those right). Calcata has a pretty interesting history. “In the 1930s, the hill towns's fortified historic center was condemned by the government for fear that the volcanic cliffs the ancient community was built upon would collapse. Local residents moved to nearby Calcata Nuova. In the 1960s, the emptied historical centre began to be repopulated by artists and hippies who squatted in its medieval stone and masonry structures. Many of the squatters eventually purchased their homes, the government reversed its condemnation order, and the residents of what had become an artistic community began restoring the ancient town.” –Wikipedia

Just as advertised, it was a medieval hill town full of artists and hippies. It's a popular destination for Halloween with all of its condemned medieval goodness. The art shops were open late to peak into. The whole town was decorated with fake spider webs. There were also lots of jack-o'-lanterns and a few monsters. The little town museum was open and free. They even had a live band and a fire in the town square. It was pretty good.

I was happy to see a lot of people in costume and even more with a hat or some type of half-effort costume. Almost everyone had the “typical” costumes. For example more than half of the women were dressed as witches. I think we left near midnight, and people were still pouring in, some with more interesting costumes.


After Calcata we went to Gerlando's for dessert. Valentina had made a bunt cake. We also had limoncello made by her mom from their lemon tree and booze soaked cherries (recommended!). It was all really good, but it was really late at night by then, and the clocks had changed the night before, so it felt even later. But only to me. Apparently the three of them have learned to overcome the need for sleep at normal hours from years of working as nurses. I had to be the party pooper.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

First month in Rome

I have finished my first month in Rome. I didn't write very much during this time. At first everything was really busy and hard, then life seemed sort of everyday and not worth writing about.

My first week all I was doing was trying to find an apartment. It was very stressful. I was hating Rome but trying to withhold judgment. Everything was so hard. I couldn't understand the Roman accent. No one is friendly. Now I've made it my mission to help every lost tourist I can, or to talk to them if we're somewhere like the Metro. So that they might have a better impression of the people in Rome than I got my first days.

Things got better immediately after I moved into my apartment. I was living in a nicer part of Rome, the historical center, and I had Filippa. I made friends at school, through CouchSurfer, and through Filippa. I met Daniele, who took me out of the touristy zones I had been frequenting. It took a few weeks, but I was eventually able to understand the Roman Italian accent. Live is now pretty good, actually.

I finished my four weeks of language classes; made friends with a few of the girls there. Amy from Texas has been living in Rome for a year and a half with her Italian boyfriend she met back home. Sofi, Hungarian, is here considering going to university in Italy next year. Kimiko, Japanese has moved here to Rome and would like to work in tourism. Chiemi, also Japanese has been living here a year. Now I am studying on my own. Since I have plenty of people to practice with, this is better. I can work on the things I need to improve most. I am still spending plenty of time studying even without the motivation of class everyday. I signed up for the CILS level two (B2) test. This is the same test and level foreigners have to take to apply to an Italian university. It might be a little beyond my level, but I have nothing to lose if I fail.

This past month I have been having different Roman adventures in the afternoon, evening, and weekends.

If I don't go out at night, I typically walk around my neighborhood, by the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. There are a lot of designer shops around here with beautiful window displays.

It is maybe a 10 minute walk to the Trevi Foutain or Pantheon. I go there a lot, but it's a little too tempting to not get a gelato when I do.

My second Sunday here Filippa and I went to the beach. We took the train and it was about 30 minutes away. It reminded me of a city beach in California, nice but you know it is much nicer if you go just a little further away. Unfortunately there are still those horribly annoying venders. So every few minutes you are asked if you would like to buy some sunglasses, necklaces, or some other crap. I was prepared in advance that Filippa wore a two piece because I saw it drying in the bathroom. It also fits perfectly with her Italian personality. That's old Italy, not today's Italy with lots of American influence. I mean, we don't even have a toilet seat, I don't expect her to have my idea of modesty. She didn't wear the suit top most of the time we were at the beach, but again, that fit perfectly well with what I expect from her. I'm pretty sure she never wears a bra, so why would she keep her bathing suit top on at the beach?

The following Sunday Filippa and I went together to Porta Portese, but we split up pretty quickly. Porta Portese is a gigantic market every Sunday. Everything you can think of is there. Clothes, shoes, and jewelry, sure, but also furniture, housewares, animals, books, and all sorts of other things. A lot of the same things vendors sell in the center you can find there for less. I would like to go back one more time.

I also made a Pumpkin Pie. It was a little tricky finding all the ingredients here. It was definitely tricky converting the recipe to metric. Not only is it metric, they measure in mass. Cups and the other units we use are all volume. Each ingredient has it's own conversion rate. And they sell butter in two different size sticks here. It was a fun exercise in 2nd grade mathematics.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Musei Vaticani

Today I finally went to the Vatican Museum. When my mom, Aunt Linda, and I came to Rome four years ago we made our “Vatican” day Sunday. We did this to get our stuff blessed by the pope, not realizing the museum is closed on Sundays and we would miss the Sistine Chapel. I've been waiting for a whole free day to see the entire thing; that was today.

I visited for about six hours. I saw everything, from the Sistine Chapel and the Rafael Rooms to the modern art and Vatican stamps rooms. I planned ahead to take my time and spend the day there, so I packed a small lunch. As I was about to leave the cafe, the table next to me needed another chair. I called over to them that I was leaving, and as the girl still standing turned to thank me and take it, I saw it was my friend Med Murray from High School! Then as I looked closer I saw that Cecelia Gondek was also there. The third girl was a friend of Cecelia's from grad school. We caught up and chatted for a little while. Meg had been working in a recording studio in New York until last February when she moved to LA. Unfortunately they were continuing on to Tuscany the next day, so we couldn't make other plans, but it was a really nice surprise.

Here's us in the cafe:

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Monday, October 25, 2010

Places in Rome

This post is just for me to remember all my favorite places here in Rome.

Vatican Area

Castroni
American Groceries
Few different locations

Panifico Mosca
Via Candia, 16
Pizza to go. Perfect to grab before waiting in Vatican line.
Metro: Ottaviano

Greater Vatican Area / Via Cola di Rienzo

Gelarmony
Via Marcantonio Colonna 34
00192 Rome
Neighborhood: Prati
http://www.gelarmony.it/
Phone: 06 3202395
My favorite gelateria, Sicilian, so you can also get a fabulous cannoli!
Right next to Mondo Arancina
Metro: Lepanto

Mondo Arancina
Via Marcantonio Colonna, 38
00192 Roma
06 9761 9214
mondoarancina.it‎
Delicious fried rice balls. Right next to my favorite gelateria.
Metro: Lepanto

Pantheon Area, all very close

Della Palma
Via della Maddalena, 19/23
Gelateria with lots and lots of flavors

Divino
Via dei Pastini, 112
0669941328
2.50 euro Beers

La Casa Del Caffe' Tazza D'Oro Dal 1946
Via degli Orfani, 84, Roma
Tel 06.6789792
www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com
Iced espresso

Gelateria Artigianale Buccianti
Via Guistiniani, 18/A
www.gelatosimplyitalian.com

Misc.

Pompi – il Regno del Tiramisu
Via Calpurnio Fiamma, 67, Roma
Tel 06.768635
King of Tiramisu
Metro: Re di Roma

Gelateria Origini
Via Del Gesu 73/a, angolo via Pie di Marmo, 00186 Roma
Via Degli Olmetti 3-, 00060 Formello, Roma
Tel 06.45473915
All natural gelato

Doctor Look
Via Domenico Tardini, 20 (near Cornelia)
0666144972
Hair stylist

UPDATE July 2011, July 2012

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Kevin and Andrea Visit

Kevin and Andrea (friends from Northeastern) are taking a Mediterranean Cruise that stopped in Rome. So I got a visit from them yesterday. They got in at 10am and had to be back at 4:30, so it was just a short excursion but was great seeing them and we got a lot in the short time.

They came into St. Peters station, Daniele and I met them there. It's near the Vatican, so we went there first. And since it was Wednesday the Pope was giving his blessing. We chilled out with Ben [http://www.vatican.va/holy_father/benedict_xvi/index.htm] for a little while and did a loop around the square taking pictures. Then grabbed a little snack of arancini at a place that is only arancini. Yum! Then we went to one of the hills, Gienico, maybe? I can never remember those names. There we could see the whole city. Then we headed into the historical center where we luckily found great parking right away. We had just enough time for quick stops at the Roman Forum, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and some gelato before it was time to bring Kevin and Andrea back and Daniele had to go to work.

I got a lot of great pictures. They should be up today!

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Visa Issues

Today I had to visit the police in Rome. As procedure, I gave my passport to Filippa to show them as soon as I moved in. At a hotel or hostel they send all the passport numbers everyday. At a private residence, the owner has to bring the physical passport. Only they did not like it and I had to go there in person.

I came to Italy / the EU with a tourism visa. Americans can travel to the EU (and lots of places) with this type of visa very easily. We just get a stamp when we arrive, nothing has to be applied for in advance. In the case of the EU, we can stay for up to three months before we are supposed to return to the US for six months. But keep in mind we only get stamps when we arrive. It is virtually impossible to know when we leave or how long we stayed after the fact. It is extra confusing considering the visa is for the whole EU. Thousands of backpackers travel Europe for years at a time, and no one really knows or cares because they are never in one place very long.

When I came out here I took the cheapest flight possible, a very long flight from SAS that stopped in Stockholm and eventually dropped me in Milan. No, I did not get to see Stockholm. Since I first touched down in Europe in Sweden, that is where my visa is from. I had all but forgotten about this, it seemed so unimportant.

In Italy, if you are staying for more than one week, apparently they want you to have an “Italy” EU visa. I was unaware. I only even ran into this after being in Italy a month. I had never stayed at the same hostel for more than one week. Also, they were hostels, so only my passport number was being sent, the police could not see that my visa was from a country other than Italy.

So at the police station it was not a very big deal, I had not done anything wrong (and I knew it). We went right in, because of course Filippa knew them all. They just needed me to fill out a form, since I am here for more than one week and my EU visa is not from Italy. So why am I so upset? This form that will stay with the Italy police says when I arrived in the EU, and when I plan on leaving, more than my passport says. Now the Italian police know that I have used up my tourism visa until May 23th (six months after I leave). They said I could still go to Spain (for example) or I could come back to Italy with a work or student visa. But I'm bummed that I can't just drop in to Italy for a visit until May 23rd.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Out with Filippa

Last night Filippa took me out for gelato near the Pantheon. I mentioned before she knows everyone in the neighborhood. She took me to a bar / restaurant nearby just to introduce me to everyone who works there. She is telling everyone she is friends with my parents. Then while waiting for the bus, she pointed out the Carabinieri. I asked the difference between the Carabinieri and Polizia and she called them over and had them explain, chatted with them until the bus came. Later we passed a police station and she had us go in, chatted up the girl working at the desk, and had her explain the difference again. And model for me the difference in uniform. When we walked out she said to me in Italian, “I'm not exactly normal”. (In case you are curious, the polizia are civilian, and the cababinieri have a military structure.) We got delicious gelati and took cover from some rain in a museum entrance across the street, where she knew the people there as well. Then we went to the Pantheon, which was amazing. The noble families in Italy (or maybe just Rome) still get married there. Rome seems smaller with Filippa.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Arrived in Rome

I have arrived in Rome where I will stay the rest of this trip to Europe. When I first got here the friend of a friend I was supposed to meet, an Italian girl, changed her mind and decided to stay out of the city for the night with her family. So I had to make new plans last minute. Leaning against the train station wall, looking only at my cell phone, an old gypsy woman walked by cursing at me and making hand gestures. Then when she had finished passing, she mooned me! Buonvenuta a Roma!

My first days were busy starting school and apartment hunting. I was staying near the Vatican (near my school) and not taking time to visit the sights in the center. I had blocked from my memory how difficult it was to find an Italian apartment last time (4 years ago in Milan). There is no single website here like we have back home. Everything is in Italian. Everything moves at the speed of Italy. It really enforces how difficult it can be for foreigners.

But I have an apartment now! I'm living near Piazza di Spagnia (the Spanish Steps) just a few feet away from Via del Corso, a pretty important street. It's the historical center. I'm lucky to have found a room here for only 2 months. My room is in the apartment of a little old Italian lady, Filippa. She has lived in this apartment for 25 years! She knows everyone in the neighborhood. She does not speak any English and she is determined to teach me Italian. It's fantastic! Though she smokes, and I forgot how much I hate cigarette smoke. Though I can hardly ask her to stop in her home.

I finished my first week of language classes. The school is smaller than I expected. My language school in Milan had so many students it was so easy to make friends there. Though I have yet to be bored. It is not the best school I have been to, but since I have a full scholarship I have nothing to complain about.

I came here with two main language goals. First I would like to be able to speak Italian with my personality. Now I can only speak simply, it's not really “me”. Second I am OK at having a conversation with one patient person. But when I go out in a group it is almost impossible with everyone talking faster and all at once. I want to be able to have a conversation with a group of people and hold my own. But these two goals have been forgotten since I arrived in Rome and realized I can't understand anything. No one told me before I got here that the Roman people mumbled-- they are known for “eating their words”. I can hardly talk to one person (depending on how thick their accent is). But I think I am getting better listening to Filippa and my teacher so much. I hope.

[Edit] Link to Rome photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20101001Roma#

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Milano

I'm just leaving Milano now for Rome. I had a wonderful time. It makes me so happy to go back there and find the city more or less how I left it. When I lived there four years ago, the saddest thing about leaving is I felt I would never be able to come back. I felt that what I loved about Milano was all the international friends I had made there and that those people would have moved on before I could ever return. Many of those people are gone now, but many are still there. In fact the ones that are still seem to be closer with each other than ever.

I stayed with Dan and his boyfriend, Eduardo (or Dado). Not only did they take me in but they made all the plans for my birthday. I got in late the 22nd, but we met some of Dan's friends for a drink. The 23rd Dan had to work, but Dado and I had a lovely day in Milan. He made me breakfast then we met one of the girls from the night before and Nick, Dan's old roommate who I met two years ago, for a delicious lunch. And had coffee after where Luc works. I knew Luc 4 years ago, though not well then since we did not have a solid language in common. In the evening Dado, Dan, and I helped a coworker of his with his new apartment and got pizza. Then we went to a club opening, Tropicana. No dieing my hair. A wonderful birthday!

I spent two more full days in Milan. It really is a wonderful city and so different from the little Tuscan towns I had visited before then. Those tiny centers live only on tourism and are surrounded by farms and vineyards. Milan is a self sufficient city where the tourists stay near the touristy parts (like a US city). I also got to eat very well being shown around by my local friends.

[Edit] Photos from Milano Visit:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100923Milano#

My mysterious absence

When I met up with Steve and Chris, my trip took on a faster pace and there was no blogging. At the same time I was in Germany without internet on my phone and there was no twittering. I didn't realize anyone besides my mom was reading along until I received so many messages wondering where I was. I'm on my way to Rome now. I've been writing. I'll be back posting shortly.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

München and Neuschwanstein Castle

I had a great ride into Munich. There was a guy in our sleeper car that had great stories and helped me get situated with the right subway ticket when we first arrived. I waited around in the airport for a little while and easily met up with Steve and Chris (friends from High School) after they landed.

We immediately hopped in a rental car and drove to Neuschwanstein Castle. The Walt Disney castle is based on this place. It was pretty sweet. Once we were there, about an hour south of Munich, we went the last 20 minutes into Austria for the sake of having visited Austria. We found ourselves in a family run restaurant in a tiny little town. They were so nice to us.

That night we just went to a local bar. It was pretty empty when we arrived, but soon after the place was packed. The tents in Octoberfest close at 10:30. The next day, once we recovered enough, we headed to the grounds. We walked around, took pictures, peeked in all the tents, rode the ferris wheel, that kind of thing. Then we had lunch and some beers at tent with a boat stage inside, I can't remember the name. It was so fun. We made friends with some Swiss guys next to us. We learned from the night before and did a quick pit stop back in the room and drank a lot of water. Then we headed back out for dinner and more Octoberfest. We spent the night at the Hippodrom. It was such a party. Everyone was dancing on the benches, which is not easy, by the way. They are shacking like mad from everyone jumping on them and people are bumping into you and I was wearing really tall heals. I fell a few times. We were lucky to be there during the week when you can just walk right into the tents. On the weekends there are lines to get in.

The next day the boys had to catch a plane back to Paris, where Chris is at University. We had a delicious free breakfast together at the Marriott, thanks to Steve's platinum status, then had to say goodbye. I planned on traveling overnight to Milan, so I had the day to kill by myself. Luckily there is no easier place in the world to make friends than Octoberfest, so I figured I would just pick a tent and go in for a beer. Even though this breaks my personal philosophy of never going into a bar by myself. Luckily I made friends with two guys, Craig and Michel, as soon as I went to a table. We had a great night! We sang this drinking song, which is based on a children's song.

This was my second time to Munich, but my first time to Octoberfest. I was here once before in April with Jeff and Drew two years ago. I'm glad I did it that way because Munich is a really cool city with a lot of sights. But being there during Octoberfest, all we wanted to do was go to Octoberfest. Since I had been before I could ignore the Glockenspiel without guilt.

Now I'm on my way to Milan, my last stop before Rome and where I'll be for my birthday. I can't believe it's my 25th birthday tomorrow. I thought I would be bummed out not to be back home having a big party, but I couldn't be happier. Well, I guess maybe if I wasn't so hung over right now. I was thinking I might die my hair as a crazy thing to do for it. But everyone seems to think that's a bad idea, that I should keep my color. Well see what happens tomorrow!

[Edit] Photos from Neuschwanstein Castle:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100919NeuschwansteinCastle#

Photos from Octoberfest:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100920Octoberfest#

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Berlin

I couldn't find a room in Zurich, so I decided to go to Berlin instead. I took an overnight train in and got in at 2 PM Thursday. I stayed at the Berlin Wombat Hostel for 2 nights. It's the same chain that Jeff, Drew and I stayed at in Vienna and Munich two years ago. It's the nicest hostel ever. Then took an overnight train to Munich on Saturday night.

What did I do in Berlin? Thursday not too much, walked around and had a nice German dinner. Friday I took a six hour walking tour that Andrew recommended to me. It was really good. I saw all the sights, actually learned what they are, as well as history of the city and Germany. It was like I did all of Berlin in a day, without having to figure out what to see. That night we made our own pub crawl with a crowd from the dorm room and the tour. We went to Tacheles, a crazy artist squatter's bar, and a few others. The other travelers I met in Berlin were super friendly. The next day I checked out and stored my stuff at the hostel while I did one museum and more walking and eating. I'm liking German food much more this visit, though I am still eating a lot of falafel.

Now I'm taking another overnight train to Munich. There I hope to easily meet up with Chris and Steve. Psyched for what's planned!

[Edit] Link to photos from Berlin:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100917Berlin#

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Cinque Terre, Second Time

I'm on my way out of Cinque Terre for the second time this trip. I'm so glad I went back, it was like getting more summer. I really liked having more warm beach time after my time in the Tuscan hills. This time I didn't feel obligated to do any of the hikes, I just relaxed on the beach. I can't believe how fast time goes by at Cinque Terre, it felt like I was in and out, not there for 5 days.

I hung out more with the Albanian guys I quickly mentioned in my other 5 Terre post. It was super fun going out with locals at night. I went to a birthday party one night for the first one I met, Elton, in La Spezia. It was really interesting how the language dynamic changes so easily. One minute I am the least able to communicate person in the room, add another English speaker, and I'm the translator. It's both fascinating and exhausting.

Now I am on my way to Germany. It will take me a whole day in transit. I'm spending 2 nights in Berlin. Then meeting Steve and Chris from High School in Munich. After that it's back to my old stomping grounds: Milano. Then to settle down in Rome. Pretty excited for all of it!

[Edit] Link to Le Cinque Terre Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100825CinqueTerre#

Friday, September 10, 2010

Volterra

I spent four days in Volterra, though a bit of that up in my room or an internet cafe doing work. Lets hope that all works out and I can sustain this fabulous life of mine! That timing wasn't an accident. I knew the work was coming in, and I knew Volterra was a town I wanted to visit that doesn’t take long to see the sights, that has an affordable hostel, but is hard to access.

So I won't lie, one of the things that brought me here was the part this city plays in the Twilight books. When reading the books I assumed Volterra was a made up town. It sure sounds like a made up town where ancient Italian vampires would live. But when reading my trusty Rick Steves, I saw it listed as his favorite “Tuscan Hill Town”. I had given myself some time to explore the little Tuscan towns, so naturally I was going to stop here.

I was staying just outside the walled center, about a 15 minute walk. The area was once where all of Italy sent their crazy people. Eventually the Mayor said enough is enough and sent them all to their own towns. There were monks and nuns taking care of the crazy people, but they went elsewhere since they were no longer needed. My hostel was the monastery. It is actually very beautiful.

The city of Volterra itself, which means city of wind and rock, was once very important in the Etruscan Era. It was a key city in the Etruscan Dodecapolis (12 city league). The original city wall was much bigger then than it is today. There is still a standing door from that time, Porta all'Arco, dating from the 4th century BC. At some point the Romans came and concord and built some Roman things. There are ruins of a very distinctly Roman theater. After Florence took the city in 1472, they built the Madaci Fortress, which today is used as a maximum security prison.

The town itself is so small that even with it's winding streets, I learned my way quickly. On my way in from Siena I made friends with an couple from Virginia. They were just staying the night, but we made friends for the long bus ride into town. I ran into them one night when we picked the same restaurant for dinner, they had extended their stay. Then another time at the grocery store, they had extended again. She was a huge Twilight fan, so it was fun to geek out about that.

I ate very well in Volterra. Best was that restaurant I mentioned above, Don Beta. They have course meals. So for 12 euro I had bruschetta, gnocchi, and beans. Those who know my eating habits know I'm not the biggest bean fan, but these were really good. There was a pizzeria I went to twice. Once I had a delicious slice with arugula all over it. The second time the pizza I picked was really different. The guy had no patience to explain how it was made, except that he uses chick pea flour. The pizza is just the dough, no toppings, and it tastes like potato. So delicious! There is also zuppa di volterra, which is a vegetable soup. I could have eaten this every day. It is really thick, there is no broth used, just yummy veggies.

And now I'm on the road again, reversing my way back North. I'm even stopping in Cinque Terra again because I liked it so much and I want more beach time. I was going to stop in Elba, but it is actually pretty big and it seems like you need a car or motorbike to get around there. After that, Zurich, then Octoberfest!

[Edit] Link to Volterra Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100906Volterra#

Monday, September 6, 2010

Leaving Siena

Since I didn't feel well I took an extra day to have a low key pack up day on the 5th. I did laundry and packed most of my things. Did the last thing I needed to do in Siena: go to the best Gelateria. Koko kabana gelato was recommended to me by Fabio, like everything else. It was pretty amazing!

On my way back from enjoying said gelato, I heard some drums. Then coming at me in the narrow street was basically a parade. Young men were all dressed up in medieval garb with either flags or drums. And on the sides were women with scarves matching the flags. The procession goes by for quite a while and there were more people with scarves at the back. I asked a group of young girls what that was all about. Side note, young girls speak quickly and are hard to understand in any language. The gist that I got was that they are all from neighborhood [animal we don't know the word for] and they are visiting all the other neighborhoods today with their drums and flags. What I couldn't figure out, was if it was friendly or taunting. Either way, quite the sight!

Monday morning I packed up, sent a small package home to lighten my load, and hit the road. I walked about 10 minutes. Took a bus to Colle. A shuttle to another bus stop in Colle. A bus to Volterra. And then walked about 20 minutes to my hostel. I'm glad I am not trying to fit these towns into a 2 week trip and I can stay put after all the effort to get to these obscure places.

Volterra looks pretty small, but I still think any place is worth a few days. Also I don’t feel well, I have work to do, so I might as well stay here where there is a 17 euro hostel! My hostel is a converted monastery. It is about a 10 minute walk outside of town, but it is really nice!

[Edit] Link to Siena Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100902Siena#

Sunday, September 5, 2010

San Gimignano

Today I took a day trip to San Gimingnano. It is quite the tourist trap, small but famous for it's beauty and still-standing towers, 14 of the original 60. My man, Rick Steves says “In the 13th century, back in the days of Romeo and Juliet, feuding noble families ran the towns. They'd periodically battle things out from the protection of their respective family towers. Pointy skylines like San Gimignano's were the norm in medieval Tuscany.”

I walked around the town, checked out some panoramas, climbed up the one open tower, and had a nice lunch in the square. I was fortunate enough to be there on a good day “11' Anniversario stada del vino Vernaccia di San Gimingnano”. As far as I can tell something happened 11 years ago-- freedom from something, I guess-- and now they are having a Vernaccia wine festival this day. There were several tables, maybe 10. Each with one or two different farms / wine makers. They each gave me a tasting or two, and their tastings are very generous. I had much more wine than I needed that afternoon. Then the local restaurants had exhibitions, and each gave samples of dishes. Only one was not vegetarian. Woo! I wish I had the food first and I could have asked about how they were made. As it was, it didn't occur to me. I was also in a rush to eat and catch my bus, or so I thought. It turned out I had an extra hour, so I got to see the traditional games. A band came out in traditional garb. Then men fought with swards and shields. It was pretty awesome!

When I got home I felt pretty awful. Not from the wine, though I'm sure that didn't help, turns out I had a 102' fever. Decided to have a low key day in Siena tomorrow instead of going to Rapolano Terme, like I had planned.

[Edit] Link to San Gimignano Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100904SanGimignano#

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Siena

When I first arrived in Siena I just crashed. I then took two full days to explore the city and it's sights. The first day I got one of the tourist packages and did the Church, the Panorama, and a museum. The church was really quite something, all white and black marble. There is stone artwork in the floors. They keep them covered most of the year to preserve it, so I was there at a good time when it was uncovered. I also walked around getting a feel for the city. Checked out the center square: Il Campo or “the field” called so because it was once the field right outside the original walls.

Siena is divided into regions. Each one has a flag, with two colors and a mascot animal. The one you are born is is the one you belong to forever. Then twice a year there is a great horse race where each region has one rider. It's a really big deal. My hostel is already booked for it next August. As you walk around, you know which area you are in because there are flags and pained lanterns along the street.

My second day I took a walk around the old fort. You can walk around the walls. I then went to one of the churches. They have a relic of Saint Caterina da Siena, her head. Her actual head in a little glass box. In the afternoon I made plans for the next few days. In the evening I went to this awesome bar, Key Largo, right on il Campo. They sell beers for a normal price, like 3 euro, and you can drink them on the balcony and watch everyone in the square drinking for way too much. It wasn't even crowed. Tourists must not know about it, and the students were still away for summer.

[Edit] Link to Siena Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100902Siena#

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Pisa

Today was a travel day. I left Cinque Terre in the morning, took the train to Pisa, visited Pisa, and took another train to Siena. Well, that was the plan anyway. In execution there were a few extra unadvertised transfers. Naturally every time I had to change trains or take a bus I needed to load all my things down and back up the sottopassagio onto a different platform. An exhausting day.

Now Pisa. I have to say I was very disappointed. All I wanted to do was stop over, see the iconic tower in person, spend a little time taking photos, and be on my way. It's not really that easy. Most disappointing was that there was scaffolding on the tower. So not even good pictures. Second, there there were just loads of tourists. I mean there are always lots of tourists in Italy, but wow! Don't they know how crappy it is? I mean I did, but I have a month to kill, so I figured why not? Also I guess I was just in a low mood from having a travel day after a week of beach days and Pisa sunk me further into it rather than pulled me out. I was still carrying lots of stuff even after I checked bags at the train station (45 minute walk away) so I opted not to pay to climb the tower. Maybe I'll go back someday, but I'm going to call or something to be sure there is nothing covering the tower that day.

Good news: Siena looks beautiful. Just too tired to look at it much tonight.

[Edit] Link to Pisa Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100901Pisa#

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Leaving Cinque Terre

Everyone who came through my hostel / apartment was just staying for about 2 nights, and I was thinking maybe I planned too much time wanting to stay for a week. Now I can't believe it is over already. I'm so glad I stayed that full week. I could probably stay a whole summer. I got to do the walk that everyone does from first town to last, and split it between two easy beach days. Did nothing but tan and swim a few days. Checked out some of the towns: I stayed in Riamaggore (5), visited Vernazza, (3) and visited and beached in Monterossa (1). I just walked through the other two.

The best part about staying for even a whole week was it felt so comfortable my last days. I couldn't walk down the main street in Riamagiore with out running into someone I had met before. There was the nice boy at my favorite foccaciaria, the guy I did some of my hike with, the Canadian girl at the dress shop who fixed a dress I ripped (she moved here with her husband, who is from here), the guy who runs Cinque Terre Holiday, the other travelers in my apartment, or the Albanian guys I made friends with. So far no complaints about traveling by myself!

[Edit] Link to Le Cinque Terre Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100825CinqueTerre#

Monday, August 30, 2010

Le Cinque Terre

First thing when I got here I was going to take a shower, but I got the better suggestion of going to the beach first. In Riomaggiore the beach is rocks, not sand, but it is still really nice. The water is warm and dark blue. People sun bath each on their own big flat rock or there is a pebble beach, too. There are two nice little coves that almost feel like swimming pools. The water is a clear dark blue. I can't reach the bottom, but I can see it and there are no fish. I saw a group of people cliff diving during my swim, not too high, but I'm sure it seems higher when you jump. I might check that out before I go.

My first full day I woke up at 4 AM from jet lag and walked around Riomaggore taking pictures. I spent some time exploring Vernazza-- Rick Steve's favorite of the 5 towns. And I went to La Spezia to get my phone figured out at Vodaphone. Not much to see in La Spezia that I could tell.

I did the big 5-town hike the next day. Still naturally waking up early I was on the trail at 6 AM. I'm glad I was because that is the only time of day that it is pleasant here. I actually gave up at town 4 because that it the hardest part of the trail and I was getting hot and tired. During my walk I met a boy named Elton from Albania. He showed me around town later and I met up with him and his friends the next day.

My hostel is an apartment with 6 beds in it. The people here have been so nice! They are mostly people traveling like me, for months or with no end in sight. For a few nights I had 5 Australians!

I leave the day after tomorrow. My plans are to do that last bit of the hike, get a better feel for some of the other towns and be on my way.

[Edit] Link to Le Cinque Terre Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100825CinqueTerre#

Thursday, August 26, 2010

And I'm off!

Yesterday afternoon my mom dropped me off at Newark Liberty International. I flew to Stolkholm, where I had a two hour layover and was very confused about going through customs. I got by just following all the Italians, who luckily are always easy to spot. Overall I give SAS a positive review. I stopped at Vodaphone in the Milano Airport and bought their only Android phone, a Nexus One before getting a shuttle from the airport to Centrale station. From there I bought my ticket to Levanto no problem and transferred to the local train to Riomaggiore. I was counting on having my phone to direct me to my Hostel, but it wasn't working. Luckily there are always plenty of people to ask and I found it easily enough. There is a little to be desired, lots of stairs, little water pressure, the internet is stolen from a neighbor, and it is super hot, but none of that is too bad. The girls in the room seem really nice.

Monday, August 23, 2010

New Jersey!

Friday morning I left Boston for NJ. The bus was really delayed and I ended up late for Nicholas’s baptism. But I guess it was OK because Michelle apparently only got there 10 minutes before me. Uncle Bill had me do the first reading, the responsorial psalm, and help give communion. I never even take the wine, so that was exciting!

Sunday my mom had a BBQ / pool party. A lot of the family came. Unfortunately it rained all day. Still a great time! Everyone wished me well. I even got a few birthday gifts, since I'll be gone for my 25th birthday. It's going to be weird when I see everyone again in 3 months for Thanksgiving, when we would see each other again anyway, after having such epic goodbyes.

I've spent the past week going through boxes taking out what I want and putting the rest away. I hoped to leave everything nice and neat, I'm mostly meeting that goal. I gave myself plenty of time to pack, thank goodness! I feel really good about what I have picked out to bring. I just hope the suitcase closes :)

[Edit] Link to New Jersey Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100817NJVisit

Sunday, August 8, 2010

The Sprint Home

Friday morning we left Walsenburg, CO and pretty much drove straight until we were all home (or I was at Alison’s). We each did one-tank-of-gas driving shifts through the next two days and nights. We only planned to stop for gas, breakfast, and dinner. However at 4,100 miles, we had a tire blow out in Western Pennsylvania. We had to go 100 miles to get new tiers after the spare was in place. We also dropped off some of my extra things at my parents, since we were driving right past. I got to Alison’s at about 3AM Sunday morning.

[Edit] Link to Road Trip Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100802RoadTrip#

Friday, August 6, 2010

Great Sand Dunes National Park

This morning we packed up camp early to start the drive to Colorado. The few mosquitoes that were at the site yesterday (I wouldn’t have thought there would be any mosquitoes in the desert, but I also wouldn’t expect so much rain) appeared to have quadrupled overnight with the storm. That was pretty unpleasant. I think we drove practically right past Four Corners, but didn’t realize it until we were way past. We stopped for breakfast in a little town, something like Smiley Bakery. During the drive we crossed over the Rockies. The summit there was 10,800 feet.

In the early afternoon we reached our destination: Great Sand Dunes National Park. There the wind blows sand into these huge dunes. Seriously a lot of sand! We climbed to the top of the closest peak, which was 750 feet high in 45 minutes. It was pretty hard climbing that high in the sand, but really fun frolicking back down. The camp sites and cabins there were all full, so we went East a while before stopping in a little town off the highway. The hotels were all full here, too. Tourist season apparently, which is pretty weird if you could see where we are. We found a room eventually and got dinner at the Iron Horse. It was the perfect example of a nice restaurant in shitty town.

[Edit] Link to Road Trip Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100802RoadTrip#

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Canyonlands National Park

We packed up camp nice and early and headed into town. The car needed an oil change. So we dropped it off and walked to the Golden Stake Restaurant for an amazingly cheap breakfast. After, we drove to Canyonlands National Park. On the way we stopped at Hole in the Rock. It was a hole in the rock. You would really have to go there to understand. At Canyonlands we set up camp at a nice site, waited out the mid-day heat and a little rain shower. There is a shocking amount of rain here in the desert. Then we went on the Slickrock hike. It was 2.5 miles and took us about an hour. It was all on rock, really looked like the desert.

In the evening we came back to the site, grilled, drank, and hung out until it was dark. In the middle of the night it rained-- poured actually. The lightening was really bright in the tents and the thunder was deafening in the canyon.

[Edit] Link to Road Trip Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100802RoadTrip#

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Arches National Park

This morning we left the Virginian Motel bright and early. Outside there were some bears; presumably rides for a local fair. We had breakfast across the street at the Moab Dinner—pretty good! That’s supposedly where all the locals go, and I might even believe it because the prices were really good.

Next we headed to Arches National Park. We saw a lot of arches and a lot of baby boomer tourists—from every country. We stopped at vista points and at hiking trails. We took a short walk around Balancing Rock. We took a 5-mile death hike from noon to 3 to Landscape Arch, Double O Arch, and the loop back. We had to do some decent hiking / climbing. One part in particular I was genuinely afraid I would fall and break my camera, if not my neck. Another part we had to scurry up a cliff face to avoid where the trail was flooded out.

After the Arches, we got an early dinner / late lunch at the Sidewinder Café (not sure on that name). Then we picked up some snacks for later at the grocery store and went looking for a camp ground. We ended up at Hal Canyon, which is really nice, basically camping at the bottom of a canyon right on the Colorado River. Only thing is we can’t have a camp fire, there was a little (very little) rain. That wasn’t too big a problem, the problem was it is really hot. We’re chilling out here for the night, drinking 3.2% Tecate and cheap California wine.

[Edit] Link to Road Trip Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100802RoadTrip#

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Hitting the road

Today we left Vegas and set off on our cross country trip. We finished our last packing and showers, checked out, and hit the road a little after 9am. I was too busy moving out of SF during the planning and am sitting in the back where the radio is too loud to hear the front, so I have no idea where we are heading. Every stop is a fun surprise!

Minutes out of Vegas the scenery is nothing but desert. We cut through the corner of Arizona, where we took some pictures at a scenic overlook. We also stopped at a few of those in Utah, they are really nice. Soon it started being a little green, not much though. We stopped in Beaver, Utah at the DFA Cheese Outlet; it was a little underwhelming. Along the way we saw a storm approaching. We were trying to keep ahead, but it eventually caught up. Besides the torrential down pour, it was pelting down hail. After Nick mentioned the possibility, I was genuinely scared the moon roof might break. It didn’t.

It was early evening by the time we reached our first planned stop: Moab. We lost an extra hour crossing time zones. Afraid of the storm that we eventually got ahead of, we skipped out on camping in favor of a $59 hotel room and dinner at the local brewery. There are a few weird local Utah drinking laws, but not as bad as we expected.

[Edit] Link to Road Trip Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100802RoadTrip#

Monday, August 2, 2010

Even more Defcon and Vegas

Today Defcon was a bit calmer. I guess people leave early or are too hung over to go to talks. We all went to Schuyler’s talk “Attack the Key Own the Lock”, which was great. As well as “Repelling the Wily Insider”, which was ok. Grabbed lunch at the Pub (a restaurant in the Riv) and watched Schuyler compete in Speed Picking. He made it pretty far, but didn’t win.

After Defcon there was some drinking in the room. I went to the pool for a little bit. We each went to Circus Circus for giant frozen margaritas. Danny went back and forth between staying for the rest of the trip and taking his flight back. It looked like he was staying until at just last minute he lamed out. The rest of us grabbed dinner at the American at New York, New York. We finished the night with some dancing at the Piano Bar there. Pretty good night.

[Edit] Link to Las Vegas Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100729Vegas#

Sunday, August 1, 2010

More Defcon 18 and Las Vegas

Saturday at Defcon was ridiculously crowded. The justly-named Goons were not helping by forcing people into the most crowded place, the hallways, as far as possible from where anyone wanted to be. It was impossible to go to more than one talk in a row because you had to wait in line for the time-slot in between.

I only made it to a few talks. Chris Paget’s “Practical Cell Phone Hacking”; “We don’t need no stinking badges, hacking electronic door access controllers”; “Physical Security Your Doing It Wrong”; and Jason Scott’s “You’re stealing it wrong, 30 years of inter-pirate battles”. It between we fit in watching Schuyler compete in Gringo Warrior—didn’t go quite as planned. He also got a mohawk for the EFF.

At night Danny, Dave, and I went to Penn and Teller. It was pretty awesome. I haven’t been to a magic show since I can’t even remember, and never at that at that level. They did a lot of good tricks, including the Magic Bullet. After we got back Schuyler joined us and we went to the Freakshow Party. There Schuyler, Danny, and I did gladiator jousting with pugil sticks on what was basically a bouncy castle. As far as I saw, me and one chick with a mohawk were the only two girls to do it all night, which I found disappointing for the Defcon Girl Crowd. There was also lots of dancing. Turns out dancing with a group of your guy friends if just as fun as dancing with a group of your girlfriends.

[Edit] Link to Las Vegas Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100729Vegas#

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Defcon 18 and Las Vegas

Today is all about DEFCON. I went to the Keynote, which was Max Kelly the former facebook CSO; Open Public Sensors and Trend Monitoring; FOE, the release of Feed over email (a tool to combat censorship); a Meet the Feds Panel; DCFluX In: Moon Bouncer; Psychosonic Attacks; and Getting Root. The Moon Bounce talk was really good. The Psychosonic one was just the right amount of crazy and Getting Root was *all* crazy.

Between talks I finished completes some scholarship documents and have an official offer letter now. Still have a few details up in the air though.

After the Defcon goodness we went to the Hilton Buffet. Its close by and has free beer and wine. Pretty good! Then we headed downtown, where I hadn’t been before. There the casinos are older and closer together. Everything is cheaper, too. We played $5 craps all night.

[Edit] Link to Las Vegas Photos:
https://picasaweb.google.com/kaitlyn.hanrahan/20100729Vegas#

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Leaving San Francisco

I’ve started my gypsy adventure. Tuesday was my last day at work and Wednesday I moved out of San Francisco. Wednesday morning I still had a lot to get rid of, so I rented a man, named Rick, with a pick-up truck for the morning. He brought me to Adobe to ship the last of my stuff and to Out of the Closet to donate the rest. Then I packed up my suitcases and headed to the airport. There was a little issue with United. Unlike most airports that measure carry on bags at the gate, they measure them at the entrance to Security. Mine was too big. I knew that it was pushing it, but I figured I would gate check. Instead I had to pay for a third bad at $100. Not too happy with United right now. Schuyler got into Las Vegas 40 minutes before me and was waiting for me when I got there. We took the shuttle together to the Riviera and met up with Danny, Nick, and Dave there. The three of them have already been adventuring in LA and Baha, Mexico. We drank in the hotel and shared stories for the night.

Today we picked up our Defcon badges. Then we got breakfast at the Blueberry Hill Dinner and went to the Pinball Hall of Fame. We stayed there for hours. It was pretty awesome, both new and old machines. Nick and I went to the Smithsonian Atomic Testing Museum for a some time while the others, who had already been there, played more pinball.

After a little break in the room we headed out for the night. We got dinner at Beijing Noodle #9 in Caesar Palace. Then walked to the MGM Grand where Danny and Dave played craps, and the rest of us walked around. We had nice cocktails at the Nob Hill Tavern before heading back.